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2006
Friday, 20 October 2006
Aqua
252 California Street
San Francisco, California 94111
415-956-9662
Website: www.aqua-sf.com/
Zagat rating: F26 25 S25 ($69)
Cuisine: Cal-French/Seafood
Synopsis:
Considered by many to be the city's greatest seafood restaurants --
and recently announced as one of only four Bay Area recipients of
Michelin's coveted two-star rating -- Aqua had been near the top of my
dining list for a long, long time. An early celebration of my and
Victoria's two-month anniversary proved to be the perfect occasion for
finally finding out whether Aqua was worthy of its exalted status.
Here's what we ordered:
Appetizers
- Hamachi (with Sharlyn Melon, Avocado, Kaffir Lime, Piment d'Espelette)
- $16
- pea/corn soup (with lobster and unagi) - $13
Entrées
- Hawaiian Walu (with Potato & Fennel Fondue, Mussels, Golden Raisin
Emulsion) - $25
- Wild Sea Bass (with Calamari Stuffed Piquillo Peppers, Arugula, Pepper
Nage) - $23
Wine
- 2004 Riesling, Saint M, Pfalz, Germany - $9
Desserts
- Gâteau Basque (with Poached Peach, Rose Sorbet) - $11
- Strawberry Glacé (with Rhubarb, Pistachio Meringue) - $10
The meal started off with two complimentary cups of toasted pumpkin soup
with crème fraîche. These were "really creamy, but not heavy, and
definitely whet our appetite" for what would turn out to be a truly
impressive series of dishes. As we wrapped up our soup, we got
some of Aqua's excellent bread; all throughout the meal, staff wandered
from table to table, carrying platters adorned with three different
kinds of rolls -- black olive, whole wheat, and sourdough -- and
politely inquiring as to whether you'd "like another roll."
First up were our
appetizers, which the chefs kindly split onto individual plates for
myself and Victoria. On the left - the hamachi; on the right -
the pea/corn soup:
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The hamachi was "very fresh, and came with a sprinkling of citrus" -- a
very nice touch. The accompanying melon was, in my opinion, a
little too similar to your standard cantaloupe; however, the sprouts
atop the hamachi and melon were surprisingly tasty, even for a
self-avowed sprout non-fan (myself). Along with all this was a
line of avocado paste that was also seasoned with delicious lime.
The hamachi really carried this appetizer, and even if the melon was not
terribly impressive, it was a winner by virtue of the fish.
The pea/corn soup, one of the day's specials, was a real treat. At
first, the waitress brought out a pair of seemingly spare bowls, with
only some shreds of lobster and pieces of unagi lining the bottom, with
no soup in sight. However, then came the show: balancing two
separate pitchers in the fingers of a single hand, she dexterously
poured in the contents of each -- one filled with pea soup, the other
with corn soup. These simultaneously filled up the bowl, but
somehow the two soups did not coalesce, each occupying one side of the
bowl for an aesthetically impressive result. And the best part was
that the soup tasted even better than it looked. Served up cold,
the pea and corn portions were individually very distinct, but each
brought out the flavor of the featured ingredient in a way that
surpassed anything we'd had in previous incarnations of these seemingly
basic soups. The soups' "texture was a lot like that of the
pumpkin soup; it was really smooth. I think soup might be one of
the chef's specialties, because I've never had anything quite like it."
And we haven't even gotten to the lobster and unagi yet. The
lobster, however limited in quantity, was exquisite; the unagi was "so
good!" Basically, we were blown away by this soup.
Next up: the entrées. On the left - the walu; on the right -
the sea bass.
.JPG)
The walu was cooked to perfection; it was just the right tenderness --
"the perfect balance on the spectrum between raw and well-done. It
did not have the fishiness of raw seafood, nor did it have the thickened
texture of cooked fish. It was tender and succulent and just
perfect." Accompanying the walu was a combination of mussels and,
in a shocker, some of the tastiest potatoes you possibly could have
imagined. The golden raisin emulsion, poured around the perimeter
of the plate upon the dish's arrival, "was softly absorbed by the walu
and veggies," adding a flavorful and "colorful new dimension" to the
fish.
The sea bass, in my opinion, tasted even better than the walu, though
Victoria thought they were "both comparable." Minor quibbles, of
course -- you couldn't go wrong with a fish whose "flesh was bursting
with its own juice, under a moist yet crispy skin." Between the
pieces of fish was a pepper stuffed with calamari and onion, and some
yummy arugula. Around the edges of this plate was a pepper-based
sauce, which -- like the golden raisin emulsion for the walu -- was an
excellent match for the flavor and texture of the primary elements of
the dish. Upon comparison, we found that the walu plate had a
little more nuanced subtlety, while the sea bass dish had a little more
spice; overall, "you couldn't say one was better than the other, because
they each had their own personalities."
Last up: dessert. On the left - the gâteau basque; on the right
- the strawberry glacé.
.JPG)
The gâteau basque was a lot like a "madeleine with custard, though
it tasted a lot better than that description would make you think.
The poached peaches and rose sorbet were my favorite part. The
ripeness of the peaches was brought out by the poaching; the sorbet had
a really strong essence of rose, but not in an overpowering way, as in
most perfumes. It was quite an experience tasting the roses."
The sorbet was topped by two slices of freeze-dried peaches, whose "main
contribution was texture and aesthetics."
"Basically, the whole thing can be described as a tribute to
strawberries. The sorbet was just jumping with strawberry flavor,
and the fresh strawberries on the side were very ripe and sweet.
The real kick in this dessert was the pistachio belt in the middle of
the sorbet. It not only was a great complement to the strawberry,
but it was greatly enhanced by the pistachio nuts embedded within the
sorbet log. The sorbet was really milky too -- unlike the rose
one, which was very light -- and I think this quality was a great match
for the strawberry and pistachio." Similar to its rose
counterpart, the strawberry sorbet was topped with freeze-dried
strawberries, which "were a lot easier to taste than the freeze-dried
peaches, I think because strawberries just naturally have a stronger
flavor."
The desserts were a great close to the meal, or so we thought -- along
with our bill, we received yet another complimentary plate, this time
featuring five bite-sized sweets:
.JPG)
All of these were pretty good, though the highlight was the coconut
macaroon (second from the right). "I liked that the
chocolate (second from the left) was a dark, semisweet chocolate
-- it was an elegant touch."
Overall, this meal met our lofty expectations. "It wasn't just
tasty -- it was an experience"; I would definitely agree. I was
most impressed by the attention delivered to even the most minor touches
of each dish; I would have never guessed that one of the best elements
of a fish dish at Aqua would be the potatoes. "It was also
surprising that the food came out so quickly, given the ornate style of
preparation." The two of us were definitely the youngest people in
the dining room; our immediate neighbors were a pair of French-speaking
businessmen who were personally greeted by the restaurant manager and
Chef Laurent Manrique. But even then, we didn't feel out of our
element, because the service was incredibly gracious and friendly for a
place with such a reputation. When it came time to rate the meal,
Victoria and I both came up with a rating of 9.5 -- it was pretty much
near-perfect, though (as I put it), "you just know when it's a 10," and
our lunch fell just short of that caliber. That said, we
couldn't identify any real flaws in the meal, and perhaps a subsequent
trip will net Aqua the coveted E-V perfect rating. Overall grade:
9.5/10.
Friday, 13 October 2006
Medjool
2522 Mission St
San Francisco, CA, 94110
415-550-9055
Website: www.medjoolsf.com/
Zagat rating: F21 25 S18 ($31)
Cuisine: Mediterranean/Tapas
Synopsis:
Perhaps best-known for its rooftop Sky Terrace bar, Medjool was the
restaurant of choice for a tapas-style Friday night dinner with
Victoria, Valerie, and Aditya. We sat in the crowded (albeit
spacious) dining room and ordered ourselves the following:
North African
- Grilled Vegetable B'stilla with Goat Cheese ($13)
- Pistachio Crusted Halibut over Braised Swiss Chard and Garbonzos with
Ras Al Hanout ($14)
Southern European
- Artichoke A La Plancha with Romesco and Aioli Sauce ($11)
Middle Eastern
- Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves with Cucumber Radish Salad ($10)
Wine
- Terre primitivo 2003, Puglia, Italy ($26
- bottle)
Desserts
- Star Anise Panna Cotta with Strawberry Mint Sauce ($6)
- Warm Chocolate Cake with Pistachio Ice Cream ($7)
As our selections above suggest, Medjool offers eclectic choices from
around the Mediterranean. With its delicious goat cheese filling,
the b'stilla was the star of the show; the halibut was a real treat as
well. The "vegetarian stuffed grape leaves," however, were just
your typical dolmas, and I wasn't terribly impressed by the artichoke
leaves (though I may not have been the best judge, as this was the first
time I'd had artichoke leaves since high school).
The terre primitivo, an Italian red, was decent but not spectacular; the
biggest surprise was the copious amount of sediment it left on the
bottom of our nouveau stemless wineglasses.
The meal ended on a high note, as the panna cotta and chocolate cake
were both excellent -- the former accompanied by absolutely delightful
sliced strawberries, and the latter by a refreshing pistachio ice cream.
While a couple of the dishes were nothing special, Medjool offered
enough good things to distinguish itself as a quality destination for
tapas (and, for the oenophiles, a nice place to grab a glass with a view
of the SF skyline). The bill came out to exactly $25 per person,
so the price tag is definitely reasonable too. The restaurant
certainly delivers a formidable one-two punch alongside its next-door
neighbor, Foreign Cinema (a personal favorite). The b'stilla alone
might make Medjool worth a return trip.
Friday, 13 October
2006
Nan Yang
6048 College Ave
Oakland, CA, 94618
510-655-3298
Zagat rating: F21 D14 S20 ($22)
Cuisine: Burmese
Synopsis:
Referred to by some as the East Bay equivalent of Burma Superstar,
Nan Yang was our destination for a nice Friday lunch. This was
only the second Burmese place I've ever been to, and the fare was quite
different from that of the more fusion-oriented Nirvana, site of my
first two Burmese food experiences. Nan Yang's diverse regional
influences were neatly summarized by the drink menu, which included such
offerings as Thai ice tea and Vietnamese coffee.
We had the five spice chicken, garlic noodles with prawns, vermicelli
with oysters, and chicken curry. The vermicelli with oysters was a
real treat, and -- in my and Victoria's opinion -- the best of our
dishes. Our appetizer, the five spice chicken, truly lived up to
its name; the chicken curry was also very flavorful and unique.
The garlic noodles were slightly more pedestrian, though the
accompanying prawns certainly made up for any shortcomings.
Overall, Nan Yang was a very good experience -- and perhaps a good
stopgap as that trip to Burma Superstar waits in the wings.
Thursday,
12 October 2006
Udupi Palace
976 E. El Camino Real
Sunnyvale, CA 94087
408-830-9600
Website: www.udupipalace.net/
Zagat rating: F19 D8 S14 ($14)
Cuisine: Indian
Synopsis:
I'd heard good things about Udupi Palace for years, but until
Thursday night, I'd never given it a try. Ishaan, Srini, Janet,
Sameer, Victoria, and I paid a visit to the Sunnyvale branch for a meal
of thali dinners and dosas that rivaled the offerings of old local
favorite Saravana Bhavan. I would say that a couple of the items
in my thali dinner actually surpassed SB, but I'm not quite ready to
crown a Sunnyvale champion just yet. For now, I'll call it a draw --
which is another way of saying that Udupi Palace is undoubtedly worth a
look.
Tuesday, 10 October
2006
Zazie
941 Cole Street
San Francisco, CA, 94117
415-564-5332
Website: www.zaziesf.com/
Zagat rating: F21 D17 S18 ($23)
Cuisine: French
Synopsis:
Aditya, in town from Shanghai, suggested we try a place in Cole
Valley, so we met up Tuesday night and decided to check out Zazie.
Most famous for its weekend brunch, this French bistro was bustling with
customers even though it was a random weeknight -- there was no shortage
of tables marked "reserved." Taking our seats on the patio, we
were pleased to discover a great deal on the (poorly formatted and
hard-to-read) menu: a $19.95 three-course prix fixe special, with
choices between several appetizers, entrées, and desserts. Here
are the three courses I ordered:
- Mussels Marinieres (with white wine, garlic, shallots, parsley, and
cream) - $8 when ordered alone
- Fish Soup Provencale (with snapper, mussels, swiss, and rouille) - $12
- Crumble Zazie (fresh fruit crumble, served warm with crème fraîche) -
$6
That's a $26 value for the cheap price of $19.95. It sounded
really good on paper, but would the food back it up? The opening
salvo -- incredibly tasty rolls, warm and fresh out the oven -- was a
sign of things to come. This bread was so good, I kept asking for
more (maybe they're great because they bring them out one at a time?).
They were also a perfect accompaniment to my appetizer: the mussels.
Tender and juicy, these mussels were served with a sauce that I devoured
(with the aforementioned bread as my utensil).
The fish soup offered no letdown from this great start. The
snapper was wholly impressive -- flaky, soft, and virtually ready to
melt in your mouth. The orange soup was somewhat reminiscent of
Indian curry, which is a winning descriptor in my book. And
accompanying the bowl was a plate of cheese and three huge rouille-topped
croutons. These spicy croutons were an ideal complement for the
soup. While the cheese didn't add much, it was presented in its
own mini-bowl off to the side, so I could put in as much or as little as
I wanted. Overall, a truly great entrée.
Dinner concluded with the crumble zazie -- essentially a warm fruit pie
with some crème fraîche mixed in. This was actually the weakest
leg of the meal; the pie was not overly saccharine, and the crème
fraîche was wonderful, but the fruit and crust were a little
nondescript. That said, it certainly wasn't enough to take away
from the overall excellence of this three-course experience.
By the time we got up and headed for the door, I was stuffed. The
food was great, and it was an even greater deal: for $19.95, you'd
probably be hard-pressed to find many restaurants that offer a better
value for three courses. Aditya commented that he would have been
willing to spend closer to $40 for his three (the salade louis malle,
the grilled mascarpone polenta cakes, and the pot de creme au chocolat).
Sure enough, Zazie lived up to its sterling reputation -- and we weren't
even there for the brunch! For both its value and quality, Zazie
earns an overall score of 9/10.
Thursday, 5 October
2006
Delfina
3621 18th Street
San Francisco, CA, 94110
415-552-4055
Website: www.delfinasf.com/
Zagat rating: F26 D19 S23 ($43)
Cuisine: Italian
Synopsis:
I had always heard Delfina mentioned in the same breath with the
very best of SF's culinary offerings. So naturally, when Valerie
suggested that she, me, and V check it out, we jumped at the
opportunity. This is what we got:
Appetizers
- Gnocchi with wild nettles, chanterelle mushrooms and pinenuts ($13.00)
- Salt cod mantecato with walnut oil and fennel seed flatbread ($8.50)
Wine
- Gavi di Gavi "Etichetta Gialla" - Villa Sparina 2004 Piemonte ($18.00
- half bottle)
Entrées
- California white sea bass in brodo with fregola, fiorelli and cherry
tomato conserva ($24.00)
- Sautéed local petrale sole with early girl tomatoes ripieni and aioli
($24.00)
- Roasted Liberty duck with Brown turkey figs and farro ($19.75)
Desserts
- Butter pear and quince crostata rustica with vanilla gelato ($8.00)
The gnocchi came out first. Valerie liked this dish a lot, even
though our attempts to identify the nettles came up empty. The
salt cod mantecato was served up in a brulee-style bowl; it was a little
too fishy and fennelly for Valerie, but Victoria and I thought it was
very good (and indeed salty).
We got a half bottle of a white wine from northwest Italy; we all
thought this was crisp and delicious and a good accompaniment to our
entrées, which were all served up together:

The sea bass (far left) was presented with an excellent grain-like
pasta. This dish was very flavorful, and the bass quite tender.
The duck (top right) was Valerie's favorite; Victoria and I thought the
portion size might have been a little small, though ultimately this
didn't end up mattering, because I ended up finishing off the entire
last drumstick (and all the plates.. and even all the sauces). The
sole (lower right) was our least favorite. It came battered and
fried, and I find that this style of preparation essentially robs the
fish of any of its actual flavor and tenderness. The tomatoes,
however, were great; they were stuff with diced garlic and onion, and
the combination was just tantalizing. The greens' flavor was
almost overwhelming, but as a collective whole, I would have to say
these dishes were pretty high-caliber.
For dessert, we got the butter pear and quince crostata rustica --
essentially a pear tart accompanied by delicious vanilla gelato.
Victoria thought this pie was alright -- serviceable, but not
spectacular.
Overall, Delfina was a very good meal, but at a price tag of over $143,
we didn't think it was a great value. The gnocchi and sole didn't
distinguish themselves in any way, and the cod mantecato tasted like
similar dishes I've gotten elsewhere at much lower prices. That
said, we have to give credit where credit's due; the bass and duck were
pretty darn good, and those dishes in particular led me to give Delfina
an 8.5 out of 10 and Victoria an 8 out of 10. Overall grade:
8.25/10.
Wednesday, 4 October
2006
Indian Oven
233 Fillmore St
San Francisco, CA 94117
415-626-1628
Website:
www.indianovensf.com/
Zagat rating: F23 D16 S18 ($27)
Cuisine: Indian
Synopsis:
On a rainy Wednesday evening, Victoria, Ishaan, ??????, and I paid a
visit to what is considered by some to be the best Indian restaurant in
the city. Of course, being foodies, we had to go judge for
ourselves. Here's what we ate:
Appetizers
- Samosas (Two crisp and spiced vegetable puffs filled with potatoes and
peas) - $4.95
- Vegetable Pakoras (Spinach, onion, and potato dipped in a chickpea
batter) - $3.95
- Papadum (Sun-dried lentil wafers) - $2.00
Entrées
- Dum Aloo Vindaloo (Spicy potatoes and cumin sautéed Indian style) -
$8.95
- Dal Saag (Combination of spinach and lentil) - $8.95
- Chicken Tikka Masala (Barbecued boneless white meat sautéed with
herbs, spices, and tomatoes) - $11.95
- Fish Masala (Chilean seabass chunks cooked in a tomato curry sauce) -
$14.95
Desserts
- Kheer (Traditional Indian rice pudding - "Best in Town") - $3.00
We started off with the papadum and some delicious chutneys. This
was followed up by the pakoras and samosas; the former were fried to
crunchy perfection, while the latter were "potatolicious" (V's word).
The entrées were excellent. The Chilean seabass was accompanied by
an absolutely delectable curry sauce, featuring just the right blend of
spices. The chicken tikka masala was very solid -- perhaps not
quite worthy of its relatively hefty price tag, but well-executed
nonetheless. The dal saag, which Ishaan ordered in spite of the
recent spinach crisis, turned out to be one of the best dal dishes I've
had at any Indian restaurant. Finally, the dum aloo vindaloo was
easily the spiciest dish we had; it was also perhaps the least
impressive, though its hotness gave it some points in my book.
For dessert, we ordered up a serving of kheer that Victoria termed
"heavenly." We liked it so much, we ended up ordering an encore --
though sadly, the second bowl of kheer was a small step down from the
quality of the first.
The bill turned out to be just a tad over $90, but Victoria and I
independently came to the same conclusion: Indian Oven was a solid 9 out
of 10. Ishaan and Manish were not quite as impressed; however,
since they're Indian, their ratings are being thrown out for the
purposes of this blog. Overall grade: 9/10.
Saturday, 23 September 2006
Chez Panisse Cafe
1517 Shattuck Ave.
Berkeley, CA 94709
510-548-5049
Website: www.chezpanisse.com/
Zagat rating: F27 D23 S25 ($45)
Cuisine: California/Mediterranean
Synopsis:
The last time I'd been to Alice Waters' East Bay institution was
back in 2004, so the time was ripe for a return visit. Victoria
and I headed across the Bay Bridge on a foggy Saturday night for our
8:30 PM reservation at Chez Panisse Cafe. Here's what we ordered:
Appetizers
- Cucumbers and beets with garlic, cumin, and yogurt ($8.00)
- Pizzetta with rocket, coppa, and Parmesan ($12.00)
Wine
- Chignin, Vin de Savoie, Jean-Pierre & Jean-Francois Quenard, France -
2005 - $8.75 (glass)
Entrées
- Local king salmon with green beans, fennel, and anise hyssop ($26.00)
- Elliott Ranch lamb meatballs with couscous, shell beans, tomato, and
charmoula sauce ($22.00)
Desserts
- Apple-huckleberry crisp with huckleberry ice cream ($9.50)
- Toasted almond custard with Lucero Farm strawberry coulis ($7.50)
Along with these dishes, we got ourselves a side plate of tasty green
and black olives. We decided to share everything, and the waiter
offered to bring each dish sequentially, so we could focus our
attentions on one at a time.
We started off with the
cucumbers and beets. Victoria says: "The yogurt sauce was not sour
like you'd expect of yogurt, but was instead really light and refreshing
-- it brought out and complemented the flavors of the beets and
cucumber."
Second up was the pizzetta.
V: "With only three toppings, the pizza sounded simple on paper, but the
combination of ingredients mixed really well -- you would have guessed
there were half a dozen toppings on there, the way the flavors danced on
your tongue. And the crust was great too -- lightly crunchy and
soft, with a nice sweetness to it." I really enjoyed this dish as
well, though both Victoria and I thought it was ultimately a bit on the
salty side. V: "The first two bites were really good, but on some
parts of the pizza (we suspect the coppa), the sodium was a little
strong."
The first entrée was the
king salmon.

I really liked the tenderness of the fish; Victoria did too ("I really
liked the way they cooked it"). The oiliness came on a bit strong,
however; Victoria thought "the oil made the fish soft and tasty, but
there was just a lot of it, so it drowned the fish a little bit.
It was good because, by saturating the fish, it brought out the flavor
of the anise hyssop, but since it was oil, it made you feel really full
really quickly." This would have been a good thing if this dish
was near the end of the meal, but since it came just before the halfway
point, I definitely started feeling stuffed a lot earlier than I usually
do. Maybe this is nitpicking, but I also wasn't terribly impressed
by the complement of veggies that accompanied the fish.
The second entrée was the
lamb meatballs.

V: "As meatballs, they were excellent -- but you would have never known
it was lamb unless you'd been told. I liked the couscous with the
charmoula sauce; they went with the meatballs very well." The
couscous was kind of a side dish all unto itself; "it sat undressed in a
pile, surrounded by the sauce; it was really good on its own, but it
also formed a really good combination with the sauce." But, as
with the fish, the sauce turned out to be a little bit overpowering.
V: "The meatballs were really seasoned, which covered up the natural
flavor of the lamb. But the sauce was not as overpowering as the
oil of the fish -- the meatballs were already so seasoned that the sauce
just ended up adding more masking for the lamb."
Dessert was twofold: we
got the apple-huckleberry crisp and the toasted almond custard.

"They were both really sweet, but not so much that you'd need a drink to
mellow them out. The crisp and the apples were done very well --
they were a little sweeter than what I was used to, but they were
balanced out by the [huckleberry] ice cream. They complemented
each other very nicely."
"The custard was covered
in strawberry sauce, but it had a bit of a woody kind of flavor.
After taking a bite without the strawberry sauce, you could tell that
the almond flavor was due to a paste made from fresh toasted almonds --
which was also the source of the woodiness -- instead of the usual
almond extract found in a lot of your typical desserts. After I
had it with the strawberry again, it tasted somewhat like cheesecake.
It was a very nice dessert."
We ended up paying $123
for the meal, a little above the Zagat average of $45 per person.
It was a good dinner, but perhaps not the greatest value considering
some of our qualms (however minor) with the various dishes. I know
that for me, having been to Chez Panisse Cafe twice previously, this
meal definitely was a small step down from the high caliber and overall
excellence I'd come to expect. For this reason, I give this
dinner an 8 out of 10, while Victoria gives it -- her first at Chez
Panisse -- an 8.5 out of 10. Overall grade: 8.25/10
Monday, 18 September
2006
Cortez
550 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA, 94102
415-292-6360
Website:
www.cortezrestaurant.com/
Zagat rating: F24 D24 S21 ($46)
Cuisine: Tapas, Mediterranean
Synopsis:
The week of September 18th featured a citywide promotion sponsored
by San Pellegrino, where several of SF's top restaurants offered a
special $35 prix fixe dinner. This, of course, is simply a great
excuse for aspiring foodies (such as me and Victoria) to try new
restaurants, so we looked through the list of participating
establishments and decided upon Cortez, a downtown tapas/Mediterranean
place with a sparkling Zagat rating. Located in the Adagio Hotel,
Cortez has an elegant interior and, as we found, top-notch service.
Here's what we ordered:
Appetizers
- Mizuna and black mission fig salad with serrano ham, manchego cheese,
and Marcona almond butter
- Frisée salad, smoke trout, apple, and avocado with warm fingerling
potatoes and whole grain mustard beurre blanc
Entrées
- Crème fraiche braised salmon with creamy orzo, butternut squash puree,
pumpkin seeds, and oil
- Pan-roasted organic chicken with caramelized baby artichokes, glazed
white asparagus, and chervil scented hollandaise
Desserts
- Brown butter poached Santa Rosa plum with almond "Savarin", yogurt
sorbet and basil puree
- Caramelized banana with Manjari chocolate sorbet, devil's food cake,
almond praline, and black cardamom foam
After we ordered, we were brought a couple of tiny apple wine-sauce
puffs. The actual name was much more elegant, but neither of us
has any recollection of what it was, and the taste of these puffs
offered no further clues; they were, however, an interesting little
start to the meal.
Our appetizers, a pair of salads, featured some very tasty ingredients
-- 
the smoked trout pieces in the frisée salad were a real treat, and the
fingerling potatoes added a nice touch. The highlight of mizuna
salad was the figs, which were artfully arranged around the periphery of
the salad itself. Victoria comments that the figs were "ripe and
naturally sweet," and these -- along with the manchego cheese and almond
butter -- made this salad great.
The entrées offered a
contrast in styles --

the chicken was tender, lightly seasoned, and presented on a bed of
artichokes, asparagus, and hollandaise. Interestingly, the
combination of the latter three ingredients was actually even better
than the chicken, which was good in its own right. The salmon, on
the other hand, was better than its complements; while the salmon was
cooked just rare enough for the flavor to really shine, this was
counterbalanced by the over-the-top oiliness, sweetness, and creaminess
of the orzo and butternut squash. Overall, though, these entrées
offered just enough appealing elements to make them worth our while.
The meal concluded with a pair of
very unique desserts: the butter poached plum, and the caramelized
banana topped with black cardamom foam.

The plum was hot and sugary, and it came with a delectable yogurt
sorbet. The banana was nicely prepared -- it wasn't heavily
caramelized, and it went well with the chocolate sorbet and almond
pralines.
Overall, Cortez was a strong entry
in our continuing tour of the SF dining scene. While normally a
place for tapas, its San Pellegrino prix fixe menu was well worth the
try. Victoria and I both thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
Our grades: Eric gives it an 8 out of 10, and Victoria does too (we
honestly do come up with these ratings individually. Not our fault
they always end up the same).
Overall: 8/10
Saturday, 16 September 2006
Maverick
3316 17th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-863-3061
Website: www.sfmaverick.com/
Cuisine: American
Synopsis:
A relative newcomer to the Mission dining scene, Maverick serves up
American fare and, with its full wine bar, a variety of wines from
around the country. Ishaan, Victoria, and I joined Cliff and
company for dinner there -- and here's what we ordered:
Appetizers
- Pear Salad (sliced local pears, walnut crusted goat cheese, Epic Root
mache, lolla rossa, walnut vinaigrette) - $8.50
- Maverick Salad (baby mixed lettuce, avocado, pickled black radish
champagne vinaigrette) - $6.00
- Baltimore Crab Fluffs (fried lump blue crab meat fluffs, micro celery,
tartar sauce) - $11.00
Wine
- Sauvignon Blanc - Pomelo Lake County 2005 - $26.00 (bottle)
Entrées
- Pan Fried Florida Red Snapper (hush puppies, sautéed chard, roasted
golden beets, saffron fish fumet, lime aoli) - $23.00
- Ishaan's dish: Purple Artichoke Risotto (sun gold cherry
tomatoes and sautéed baby bok choy) - $16.00
- Cliff's dish: Grilled Iowa Gold Pork Chop (pan fried gypsy
peppers and eggplant, corn studded polenta cake, pork jus with whole
grain mustard) - $18.00
Desserts
- Apple Crisp (with vanilla bean ice cream) - $7.00
- Bourbon Pecan Pie (with vanilla bean ice cream) - $7.00
- Cliff's dessert: Double Chocolate Bread Pudding Crème (with
caramel ice cream, port and dried cherry sauce) - $7.00
The pear and Maverick salads were pretty solid; Victoria enjoyed the
pear salad for its simplicity, and I thought the Maverick salad had just
the right mix of spices, giving it a good kick. For some reason,
the crab fluffs -- three crab cakes fashioned into little spheres --
took a long time to prepare; they didn't come out with the rest of the
appetizers, instead arriving at the same time as our entrées. They
were certainly tasty enough -- Victoria thought their dryness was
alleviated with a little dab of the tartar sauce -- but, for the paltry
quantity, the price tag ($11.00) was a little stiff.
Everyone at the table got a
glass of the 2005 Pomelo Lake sauvignon blanc; this was crisp and
delicious -- definitely up there with the best sauvignon blancs I've
had.
Victoria and I shared the red
snapper, which was also ordered by two others at our table. Oddly,
however, the other two's red snapper filets were significantly
larger than ours (by something like 30-50%), so -- while the fish itself
certainly tasted good -- its value was clouded by this obvious disparity
in portion size (and, harking back to Alamo Square Seafood Grill,
further dwarfed the red snapper we got at Alamo, which was better
and cost ten dollars less). Victoria and I tried pieces of
Cliff's pork chop, but we weren't enthralled with it; I had an even less
favorable opinion of Ishaan's risotto, which Ishaan himself described as
"Stanford dining hall quality at Slanted Door prices."
Dessert was probably our most
disappointing course; the pecan pie and apple crisp were fairly
pedestrian, and Cliff's chocolate bread pudding tasted, in my and
Victoria's estimation, just like a brownie.
Ultimately, the great wine and
decent salads, crab fluffs, and red snapper weren't enough to carry
Maverick. Admittedly, I'm generally just not a huge fan of
American food, but I think anyone would agree that the high price (me
and Victoria's part added up to a whopping $91, including tax, tip, and
wine) for just-decent fare is grounds for a middling rating.
Ishaan, Victoria, and I give Maverick an overall rating of 5.5/10.
Tuesday, 12 September
2006
Thep Phanom
400 Waller Street
San Francisco, CA, 94117
415-431-2526
Website: www.thepphanom.com/
Zagat rating: F25 D16 S18 ($25)
Cuisine: Thai
Synopsis:
Our tour of Rachael Ray's recommended SF restaurants took us to
Haight Ashbury's highly regarded Thep Phanom. The restroom (of all
places) featured a Rough Guide to SF excerpt that quoted Delfina
chef Craig Stoll lauding Thep Phanom as "home to the best Thai food in
the universe."
Appetizers
- Miang Plah (bits of crispy fried fish tossed with refreshing mélange
of green mango, lime, lemon grass, red onion, ginger, chili and peanut)
- Larb Gai (minced chicken with fresh mint leaves, onions, and chili
peppers with a little touch of rice powder)
Entrées
- Sautéed bits of crispy fried tilapia fish (in spicy basil and garlic
sauce with crispy basil)
- Yok Yor (crispy fried jumbo prawns and filet of sole served with
peanut sauce)
Dessert
- Thai tapioca rice pudding
Expectations raised, we started off
by ordering what sounded like a spectacular starter: the Miang Plah,
which -- from its description on the menu -- sounded like a heavenly
opening salvo for our meal. Alongside it we got the larb gai, one
of my Thai staples, just to see how it measured up to the usual Thai
fare. For our entrées, we selected a couple seafood dishes: the
sautéed tilapia (which sounded like a fish version of ka prow gai) and
one of the Thep Phanom specials, the Yok Yor.
The meal started off in
earnest as the Miang Plah and larb gai were brought out together.
The larb looked (and tasted) very much like the typical larb I've had at
most places. The Miang Plah, however, looked very different from
what it had sounded like. Despite its description, there was
nothing tossed or refreshing about this dish; it pretty much looked like
an entrée, with the whole fish (tilapia, like the entrée we got --
something I didn't realize before ordering) presented with its flesh
carved out into fried chunks. The incredible-sounding assortment
of accompanying ingredients weren't really mixed together; they were
just there, not really interacting with or adding to one another.
Basically, it sounded great on paper, but the chemistry just wasn't
there. It came with strawberries, but even those were just overly
saturated with unnecessary sugar. So, while certainly decent, it
didn't blow us away.
Then the entrees came out. The sautéed tilapia was presented
exactly like the appetizer, right down to the curvature of the fish
and the way it was carved. The only difference was the sauce,
which in this case was actually pretty good; however, it was no fishy ka
prow, as I had anticipated. The Yok Yor was a mixture of
deliciousness and disappointment. The fried jumbo prawns were
delicious, especially with the uniquely tasty peanut sauce. The
sole chunks, however, were a dead-ringer -- in appearance and taste --
for the frozen fish sticks you might get from your local Safeway.
Needless to say, for a restaurant that purportedly serves up "the best
Thai food in the universe," I'm expecting more than fish sticks.
To end the meal, we
ordered the Thai tapioca rice pudding, which -- curiously -- I'd never
heard of before, even in my trip to Thailand. When it was brought
out, we were surprised to see the pudding served up in a martini glass;
the biggest surprise, however, was that the pudding was warm --
arguably even hot -- which was a rather unpleasant sensation when I
mouthed my first spoonful expecting refreshing coldness. I didn't
like this tapioca rice pudding at all, but Victoria took care of
business (her words: "It's fresh tapioca. It's different, but it's
okay").
Overall, Thep Phanom was
decent food at a moderately high price ($86 for our meal, including tax
and tip), but certainly -- to us, at least -- not deserving of the
accolades accorded to it. As far as the Rachael Ray rankings go,
we definitely have to put this second behind Alamo Square Seafood Grill.
Our grades: Eric gives it a 7 out of 10; Victoria gives it a 6.
Overall: 6.5/10
(Alex wrote a parody of this blog entry that can
be found at
http://egbertnerdlngr.livejournal.com/49295.html?mode=reply.
Check it out)
Monday, 28 August
2006
Alamo Square Seafood Grill
803 Fillmore Street
San Francisco, CA, 94117
415-440-2828
Website:
www.alamosquareseafoodgrill.com/
Zagat rating: F21 D19 S19 ($26)
Cuisine: French/Seafood
Synopsis:
The other night, Victoria and I were watching the Food Network (as
we are occasionally wont to do) and we happened to catch a little
half-hour segment featuring Rachael Ray's San Francisco restaurant
recommendations. Her pick of the litter: Bocadillos (tapas bar),
Thep Phanom (Thai), and Alamo Square Seafood Grill. Now, everyone
likes Rachael, so we naturally thought it'd be fun to follow her
suggestions and check out each of these places.
We started off with Alamo
Square Seafood Grill. Now, a lot of places specialize in seafood,
but Alamo Square gives you a uniquely customizable experience.
Working off a menu that offers choices of fish, cooking style, and
sauce, you can create your very own culinary delight. The website
breaks it down for you; you get a half pound of fish, cooked the way
you want it, for just $13.50. It sounds like a great bargain, but
of course we had to try it out first to know for sure.
The fish choices for the
day were tuna, red snapper, and lake trout. We decided to opt for
the latter two; the snapper we had sautéed, and the trout we had
grilled. We picked two of the simpler sauces -- the beurre
blanc and beurre maitre d'hotel -- so as to not overwhelm the
natural goodness of the fish itself. We also ordered the crab cake
appetizer (crab cakes over corn, fennel, and jicama salad served with
lobster sauce) to start things off -- or so we thought. The chef
preempted us by serving up complimentary bowls of mushroom soup.
Victoria and I thought this soup was great, both on its own and as a dip
for our bread.
The crab cakes were tasty, though we couldn't really discern the lobster
sauce. This was fine, though, as our fish soon followed suit.
And wow, was this good fish. Both the snapper and the trout
were cooked to perfection, and the sauces added delectability, each in
their own unique way. The snapper might have had the edge in
overall excellence, but both plates were undoubtedly top-of-the-line.
Any questions we may have had about the quality of a $13.50 half-pound
of fish were resolved very quickly.
For the closer to the
meal, we ordered the creme brulée. Yet again, this brought a
pleasant surprise -- this time in the form of not one, not two, but
three separate pots of creme brulée, in three different flavors: mint, orange, and cinnamon. The mint and cinnamon pots
were the best; the orange was still pretty good, but a stranger
bedfellow with the creme. But as far as value and definitely in
terms of taste, this dessert was a real winner.
What can we say?
Rachael Ray delivered with this one. Alamo Square is a great
choice for seafood lovers, and at a great price -- we paid only $51
(including tax and tip) for all this (the tab could easily have been
higher and still been worth it). Without a doubt, check this place
out -- you won't be disappointed. Eric gives Alamo Square a 9
out of 10, and Victoria does too. Overall: 9/10.
Saturday, 10 June 2006
Limón
524 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA, 94110
415-252-0918
Website: www.limon-sf.com/
Zagat rating: F24 D19 S20 ($34)
Cuisine: Peruvian
Synopsis:
Limón is rated SF's best Peruvian restaurant on Citysearch, and SF's
6th-most popular restaurant overall on Opentable. Valerie and I
had lunch there today, and it did not disappoint. Here's what we ordered:
- Chicharron de Pollo (Marinated chicken pieces fried then served with
salsa criolla and lemon vinaigrette)
- Ceviche de Pescado (Fresh raw Halibut marinated in lime juice, served
with yam and Peruvian corn)
- Ceviche en Crema de Rocoto (Ceviche marinated in rocoto cream sauce,
served with mixed seafood)
The Chicharron de Pollo was our appetizer, and it was excellent.
It had a big kick, and the blend of spices they used was just about
perfect. It was boneless too, which was an unexpected bonus.
Valerie and I each got a ceviche as our main dish, and I gotta admit, I
liked hers (the Rocoto) more than mine (the Pescado). Both were
very lemony and tart, but hers had a cream sauce that was just
outstanding. It was definitely cool to check out Limón and find
out firsthand what the fuss is all about -- and it provided a great
"research" opportunity for the Peru trip I have in the works for August!
Friday, 9 June 2006
Saha
1075 Sutter Street
San Francisco, CA, 94109
415-345-9547
Website: www.sahasf.com/
Cuisine: Persian
Synopsis:
Tonight, we paid a visit to this Persian establishment,
located inside the Carlton Hotel. We had a great meal -- the food
was delicious, and it was quite unlike any the Persian food I've had in
LA. Here's what we ordered:
- Salmon Baklava (fresh salmon,
marinated with mustard seed, honey and lime topped with almonds, walnuts
and honey then wrapped in phyllo and baked)
- Tiger Prawns in Milookhia (a green herb soup)
- Seafood Kibbeh (cracked wheat stuffed with fresh crab, bay shrimp,
garlic, cumin, & allspice over bed of shrimp bisque)
- pizza (the special of the day.. unfortunately, I don't remember the
description)
Of these, the pizza was my favorite.. I wish I could
distinguish/remember what was on it, because it was really a treat.
The seafood kibbeh was unlike anything I've had before -- I can only
describe as a sort of falafel with seafood. It had a bit of a
kick, and it was great. The tiger prawns were big and juicy, and
the milookhia was not terribly remarkable but decent all the same.
Finally, the salmon baklava sounded a little bit better than it actually
was, although still definitely worth a try. In the end, Saha gave
us a different spin on Persian cuisine than what we'd tried in LA, and
it was a take we definitely enjoyed. I'd recommend hitting it up
if you get the chance.
Sunday, 7 May 2006
Mango Caribbean Restaurant
435 Hamilton Ave.
Palo Alto, CA 94301
Cuisine: Caribbean
Synopsis:
Mango Cafe was one of my favorite Palo Alto restaurants -- a sure
bet for a great meal at a very reasonable price ($10 or less).
After going a few months without paying a visit, tonight I felt the urge
for some of that spicy Caribbean goodness and a tasty smoothie.
Imagine my surprise, then, when I was greeted with an unfamiliar wait
staff, different [and extremely gaudy] decor, and a new menu. It
quickly apparent that the place had changed ownership, and that the new
owners had been set on making wholesale changes to what had been one of
my favorite local establishments.
The first thing I noticed were the new prices. Gone were the
reasonable prices that had been Mango Cafe's forte; in their place were
prices three times higher, accompanied by a drastically reduced smoothie
selection, and a very different feel to the menu as a whole. The
waiter assured us that the food was "much better" than it used to be.
I took this with a grain of salt, but was hopeful that, at the very
least, my former favorite dish -- curried chicken over white rice -- had
remained as good as it always used to be.
Unfortunately, when the food came out, I was quickly met with
disappointment. The curried chicken over white rice is now AWFUL.
Ishaan got a vegetable roti, and he said he couldn't imagine a blander,
less satisfying dish. We split a salad -- formerly included with
the meal, but now an expensive extra all unto its own -- and it was
decent, but nothing spectacular. The smoothies, while still good,
are now a lot smaller than they used to be. All this, for a
whopping $26 per person. So much for great food and great value.
It's rare when I put a negative review on this webspace -- quite
frankly, writing about bad food experiences is not worth my time or
energy -- but to find that one of my old favorites has lost its heart
and soul is, to me, impactful and worth mentioning. I'm going to
miss the old Mango Cafe. I know I'll be craving their curried
chicken, yummy salad, great spicy sauces, and delicious smoothies for a
long time.
Sunday, 23 April 2006
Saravana Bhavan
1305 South Mary Avenue
Sunnyvale, CA 94087
Website:
www.saravanabhavan.com/
Cuisine: Indian
Synopsis:
The sole stateside branch of a chain of vegetarian Indian
restaurants actually originating in India, Saravana Bhavan ranks among
the top Indian places I've ever been to. I checked it out with Ishaan, Srini, and Sameer; they said it's a very authentic
establishment, and it definitely showed in the food. I had a thali
dinner, the medhu vada, and some onion bajji -- the portions were
enormous, inexpensive, and (most importantly) incredibly delicious.
I just went there last night, and I'm already craving the opportunity to
go back. 9/10.
Saturday, 15 April
2006
Peña Pachamama
1630 Powell St.
San Francisco, CA, 94133
415-646-0018
Website:
www.penapachamama.com/
Cuisine: Bolivian
Synopsis:
Known for its music and flamenco dancing, Peña Pachamama proved to
be a fun place for a night out. We paid a visit to this North
Beach establishment and enjoyed the musical styles of Sukay and Eddy
Navia. The venue/restaurant is small, so we got
to see the performance up close -- and it was an impressive one!
If there was any drawback to the experience, it's that the music was
better than the cuisine. We ordered a tapas plate and silpancho --
a traditional Bolivian dish, with flattened naturally-raised beef,
tomato concasse, huevo frito, and rice -- and found them to be good, but
less than spectacular. That said, since the food is only part
of the reason you go to this place, Peña Pachamama still gets a thumbs
up.
Sunday, 9 April 2006
Ton Kiang
5821 Geary St.
San Francisco, CA, 94121
415-387-8273
Website: www.tonkiang.net/
Zagat rating: F25 D13 S17 ($27)
Cuisine: Chinese
Synopsis:
Rahul, Sandeep, Paromita, and I had dim sum today at this popular Richmond
spot. We lucked out, arriving at about 10:45 AM and getting a
table right away -- narrowly missing a throng of people that grew into
an hour-plus waiting list by the time we finished our meal.
The food at Ton Kiang was great. In addition to great quality, the
selection of dishes here was possibly the widest I've seen at any dim
sum place, featuring all sorts of oysters and clams, a
shrimp-stuffed tofu dish I'd never seen or tried before, and many more that slip
my mind. Rahul and Sandeep particularly enjoyed the opportunity to
feast on chickens' feet. Ultimately, the tab per person came out to be just under
$19, falling quite a bit short of the Zagat average of $27. Given
the lack of wait time (perhaps a one-time bit of good fortune, but a
plus nonetheless) and the great selection, I'd have to rank Ton Kiang at
or near the top of my SF dim sum experiences to date.
Tuesday, 4 April 2006
Dragonfly
420 Judah St.
San Francisco, CA, 94122
415-661-7755
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Synopsis:
I had heard good things about Dragonfly, but I never imagined it
would be this good. Heather and I had one heck of a
dinner at this Inner Sunset Vietnamese; it exceeded my every
expectation. Here's what we ordered:
- Imperial Rolls (minced
pork, shrimp, carrot, black mushrooms, taro & onion; served w/
vegetables & fish sauce)
- Asparagus Soup - sup Mang Cua (a thick chicken stock w/ asparagus, crab
meat, egg drop, finished w/ cilantro & scallion)
- Five-spice Chicken - ga Nga Vi (tender roasted chicken seasoned w/ five
spice)
- Jumbo Prawns (served in a whole coconut, with carrots, vermicelli
noodles, and curry sauce)
- Hainan Rice (with ginger, chicken stock, and garlic)
The imperial rolls and asparagus soup came out first; the former ranked
among the best I've had, and the latter was the perfect dish for a cold
evening. The stars of the show -- the chicken and prawns -- were
both spectacular. Rarely have I had chicken as flavorful and
delicious as the ga Nga Vi; it really was a culinary work of art.
The prawns were enormous, and the presentation was
impeccable; the five prawns were served in an open whole coconut filled
with curry sauce, carrots, and vermicelli noodles. You don't get
seafood this fresh and succulent at just any restaurant. The only
weak spot in this whole mix was the rice, which sounded a lot better
than it turned out to be (fairly plain).
Overall, I highly recommend Dragonfly. It's nice to have a
restaurant like this in my neighborhood -- a real winner.
Thursday, 30 March 2006
Hawthorne Lane
22 Hawthorne St.
San Francisco, CA, 94105
415-777-9779
Website: www.hawthornelane.com/
Zagat rating: F24 D24 S23 ($56)
Cuisine: Cal-Asian
Synopsis:
Aside from an encounter with a snooty maitre d', Valerie and I
thoroughly enjoyed our lunchtime trip to this posh SoMa spot (which
looked like a real favorite among the Financial District suits).
The California cuisine was well-executed, combining Asian and Italian
elements with an eclectic mix of fresh ingredients. Here's what we
ordered:
- Rock shrimp and pea shoot
potstickers with roasted shiitake mushrooms and mangoes
- Spicy rock shrimp pizza with pumpkin seed pesto, fresno chiles and
cilantro
- Roasted chestnut and pancetta ravioli with green apple butter and beurre noisette
- Blood orange cheesecake with almond crust and blood orange glaze
The potstickers were exquisite; the pizza, unfortunately, suffered from
a little too much mayonnaise (which we both dislike immensely).
The ravioli, though, was a unique and tasty combo of flavors. The
cheesecake was also solid. Overall, while it wasn't quite as good
as its Zagat rating may suggest, Hawthorne Lane definitely is worth a
look.
Monday, 27 February 2006
Marnee Thai
1243 9th Avenue
San Francisco, CA, 94122
415-731-9999
Website:
www.marneethaisf.com/
Zagat rating: F23 D15 S17 ($22)
Cuisine: Thai
Synopsis:
Tonight, a few of us checked out this award-winning Inner Sunset Thai
restaurant, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Here's what we ordered:
- gai kaprow (chicken
sautéed with fresh chili garlic and Thai basils)
- pad cha talay (sautéed combination seafood -- prawn, calamari,
scallop, green mussel and fish -- with fresh herbal sauce and Thai
basils. Natural antidotes!)
- ma kuer (sautéed eggplant with mushroom, fried tofu, baby corn, bell
pepper, chili, garlic and Thai basil)
The gai kaprow -- my favorite Thai dish -- was very well done, with high
quality basil leaves. The seafood combo was cooked in a great
sauce, though we couldn't tell what the "natural antidotes" were.
Finally, the eggplant was quite good. Overall, a solid Thai place,
and definitely the best one I've been to in my neighborhood.
Monday, 20 February 2006
Bamboo Village
3015 Geary Blvd.
Sa Francisco, CA, 94118
415-751-8006
Website: www.bamboosf.com/
Cuisine: Indonesian
Synopsis:
As a culinary follow-up to our
Yosemite trip, we tried out an Indonesian place that neither of us
had been to before. Here's what we ordered:
- soto mie (beef soup with
noodle, rice stick noodle, cabbage, onion, fried risoles, tomato,
potato)
- bandeng presto (deep fried special marinated whole fish with red chili
sauce on the side)
- es teler (young coconut, avocado, jackfruit, in ice blended, pour with
sweet syrup and condensed milk)
- es alpukat (avocado Juice blended with ice, topped with mocha syrup)
The fish was a little dry for our tastes, but the soup was absolutely
brilliant. The drinks were great too -- very unique, full of
flavor, and delicious. Bamboo Village turned out to be a solid
find. If/when I go back, I'll have to try a different dish in
place of the fish.
Monday, 30 January
2006
Foreign Cinema
2534 Mission St.
San Francisco, CA, 94110
415-648-7600
Website:
www.foreigncinema.com/
Zagat rating: F21 D24 S19 ($41)
Cuisine: Cal-Mediterranean
Synopsis:
Wow. Foreign Cinema is another of those restaurants that I've
heard so much about; tonight, Heather, Rachel, and I went down to the
Mission to check it out -- and we were blown away. Both the food
and the decor far exceeded our expectations. I've never been to a
restaurant set up the way Foreign Cinema is. You start off by
walking down a long corridor, as if you're entering an old style movie theater..
and lo and behold, at the end, you get your choice of a beautiful indoor dining room
or a stunning outdoor courtyard, replete with heat lamps and -- you
guessed it -- a foreign film playing on a huge wall/projection screen
(the film du jour was "Death in Venice"). As if this weren't
enough, the restaurant has two bars -- one old-fashioned kind, and
another set up inside Foreign Cinema's own art gallery, a separate room
connected to the courtyard. Spectacular stuff. Oh, and did I
mention the food?
First Course
-
Baked fromage d' Affinois
with crostini, potatoes,
- mussels
- Caesar salad
Comments: Few restaurants I've visited have started off
better than this. The mussels were possibly the best I've ever
had, served in a splendid cream sauce. The fromage -- an
outstanding soft cheese -- was served with a number of garnishes, all of which
were great. The Caesar salad was a little more pedestrian -- yet
still unlike any other Caesar salad I've ever had, and indisputably
delicious. An incredible round of food.. an absolute culinary
delight.
Second Course
- sea bass in Thai curry sauce
Comments: Of everything we had tonight, the main
course was the biggest surprise; it actually did not match the
excellence of its description (and believe me, it sounded delicious).
The Thai sauce and accompanying vegetables were slightly underwhelming,
and the sea bass was good but not in the ballpark of what I expected
based on the quality of the appetizers. Don't get me wrong, I
finished everything on the plate (and on Rachel's plate too), but this
could have been a little better.
Third Course
- Chocolate pot de crème
- lavender crème brulee
- ginger cake with ice cream
- granitas - passion fruit and blood orange sorbet
Comments: Redemption came in the form of dessert. I
observed that this was the first time I've ever been at a table that had
more desserts than there were people, but boy was it great. The
granitas were remarkably good; the lavender crème brulee was amazing;
the ginger cake was the least of the bunch, but still passable; and the
chocolate pot de crème was just out of this world.
Along with the food, we
also shared two glasses of wine: a pinot noir and a sancerre, with the
latter ranking as possibly the best glass of white wine I've ever had.
Overall, Foreign Cinema was impressive and, in many regards, stunning.
The food alone merits a 9, but the incredible decor pulls Foreign
Cinema up to a full 10 out of 10. This ranks among my
top all-time food experiences.
Sunday, 29 January 2006
Mayflower
6255 Geary St.
San Francisco, CA, 94121
415-387-8338
Zagat rating: F22 D10 S14 ($24)
Cuisine: Chinese
Synopsis:
Considered to be the best spot for dim sum in SF -- a reputation
evidenced by the big crowd and our 1.5-hour wait time -- Mayflower did
not disappoint. Heather, Lua, Howard, Annie, Pauline, and I
feasted on an assortment of dishes whose names I do not know; I
definitely had at least a couple dishes that I'd never seen before, let
alone eaten at a dim sum place. Ultimately, the meal was
definitely worth the wait, and a great way to celebrate Chinese New
Year. Rating: 9/10.
Saturday, 28 January
2006
Farallon
450 Post St.
San Francisco, CA, 94102
415-956-6969
Website:
www.farallonrestaurant.com/
Zagat rating: F24 D27 S23 ($57)
Cuisine: Seafood
Synopsis:
I've heard no dearth of stories about Farallon, so with January (and
Dine About Town) winding to a close, I had to check it out.
Valerie and I had lunch there today, and we made a few observations right
off the bat: the decor is as gaudy as people say (maybe even more so);
we were definitely two of the youngest people there; and a lot of people
got the prix fixe menu (including us). Here were my thoughts:
First Course
- butternut squash soup with walnut oil and chives
Comments: Unspectacular, but solid. Not a bad first
thing to be eating to start off your day.
Second Course
- roasted Hawaiian mahi mahi with almond & Meyer lemon relish,
flageolet beans, and arugula pistou
Comments: This was either the best or close to the
best mahi mahi I've ever had. The Farallon chefs really outdid
themselves, turning what is usually a relatively bland fish into an
absolute delight.
Third Course
- coconut cake with fresh pineapple, pineapple caramel, and vanilla
chantilly
Comments: Valerie had reservations about this dessert going
in, and it turns out her misgivings were warranted; the coconut cake was
overly dry and didn't mesh particularly well with its pineapple and
frosting accompaniments. Definitely the weakest of the three
courses.
Overall, I'd give this
meal a 7 of 10, perhaps in part because my expectations were so elevated
from what I'd heard about Farallon going in. I think the mahi mahi
was the best hint at the quality of the regular menu, which in all
likelihood is as excellent as its reputation suggests. So, while
this lunch wasn't Hall-of-Fame caliber, I would definitely give Farallon
a second try -- in all its full-priced ($57) glory.
Saturday, 21 January 2006
Butterfly
33 The Embarcadero
San Francisco, CA 94111
415-864-8999
Website: www.butterflysf.com/
Zagat rating: F19 D21 S17 ($39)
Cuisine: California fusion
Synopsis:
Babs, Nicole, Walter, Peter, Jjtswan, Florence, Sha Sha, Buddy,
Manish, and I paid a visit to Butterfly on Pier 33 to take advantage of
January's S.F. Dine About Town promotion, which featured a $21.95 brunch
prix fixe menu with the following choices (my selections in bold):
First Course
- fire fried calamari with a tobasco remoulade and ponzu marinated
cucumbers
- duck confit spring rolls with a honey and chinese mustard dipping
sauce
- house smoked salmon carpaccio with whipped horseradish and wonton
crackers
Second Course
- shaking beef cobb salad with apple wood bacon and maytag blue cheese
- macadamia nut and banana waffles with coconut cream and a caramel
sauce
- smoked salmon scramble with texas toast and tobiko crème fraiche
- grilled chicken salad club sandwich with avocado and apple wood bacon
Third Course
- warm chocolate torte with coffee ice cream and raspberries
- classic crème brulée with berries
The meal began with a
Butterfly specialty: sesame edamame -- the best edamame I've ever had.
The calamari was impressive; it was high quality, and there was an
entire bowl of it, which was a lot more than I expected. The
smoked salmon scramble was salty, even by smoked salmon standards, but
decent. When it comes to crème brulée, I'm no connoisseur, but I found it to be
pretty good, and it came with a surprise
treat: a delectable almond/tea leaf cookie. Overall, a good meal
-- I'll give it a 7 out of 10 on the strength of the edamame and
calamari. And a big thank you to Barbara for organizing lunch!
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The Zagat rating system:
F=Food
D=Decor
S=Service
$=Average price of dinner (including one drink
and tip)
All ratings are on a scale of 0 to 30:
0-9: poor to fair
10-15: fair to good
16-19: very good
20-25: excellent
26-30: near perfect
Links:
Zagat.com
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